I rather agree with the reviewer who argues that Bay Wolf has taken it to another level of excellence, although I am not certain that Bay Wolf was ever a ""wanna-be"" Chez You-Know-Where.
I remember the Bay Wolf as a Silver medal to Water's Gold standard: Now I am not so certain. th the venerable outposts. Two recent, outstanding dinners at Wild's redoubt would suggest Bay Wolf may have bested its counterpart. The food was brilliantly prepared, flavours intrigued, and the sophistication of textures gave an understated elegance to the balanced presentations. Service varied, but exuded less hauteur than Chez Panaisse (which, as we all know, belies its ""elegant simplicity"" with healthy helpings of cool condescension).
For our group, the Bay Wolf was always an excellent restaurant; on my return, it provided cuisine that was inspired.
To raise the bar after all these years more than justifies the venerated Wolf's.
Pros: Excellent dishes, Kitchen in command, Understated elegance
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