While Sushi Nozawa is for purists, Katsu-Ya, just a mile or so down Ventura Blvd., is for innovative palates. They serve a full menu of Japanese dishes like teriyaki, tempura, miso soup, etc. But the reason to go is the "special" menu written up on dry-erase boards. This place does not have much atmosphere, the decor is uninspiring (heard they opened a prettier version in Encino) and the service is serviceable. But the creative sushi dishes are out of this world. Top favorites include Crispy Rice with Spicy Tuna, Crispy Sesame Tuna and the 4 1/2 Roll. The piece de resistance is the Baked Crab Hand Roll--one of the most divine things you will ever eat (have one at the beginning of the meal, then save room to have another at the end). Basically, it is a handful of blue crab, baked in butter, then rolled with warm rice inside a piece of sesame soy paper. Words cannot do it justice. Just go there and eat it and you'll see.
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