Oh, my. The first time I ate here it literally changed my life (in a small but significant way.)
I am a pastry chef myself, and for the last two years I've been forced, in my current job, to make all the pizzas at a very busy hotel/bar/restaurant in addition to the desserts. I used to resent the pizzas and give them no love at all, but after eating at Pizzeria Mozza I have been on a quest to replicate Nancy's beautiful dough.
It probably doesn't matter much which toppings you order. It's all about the crust. Having said that, I did have my preferences. The toppings are very, very good. The quality of the ingredients is almost palpable. The salami/tomato/mozzarella pizza excellent, but the slow-roasted broccoli pizza was a revelation. In addition to being delicious, it was fascinating. I was eating it with a level of concentration I've rarely given any food. The crust was very crisp outside, but airy, steamy, and webbed with moist, open bubbles inside. It was everything a pizza crust should be. I think I understand the complaints about the cornice being too wide, because sometimes it seems the toppings are falling into the middle of the pie and the crust dominates. But I think that's just a style choice that this particular genius of a baker has made. Or maybe sometimes it just goes a little far. Keep in mind that bread dough is actually a living thing; it can't be 100% predictable.
People who don't understand the process have made comments about how the dough is ""nothing special,"" but that is obviously not true. It may not be what you expect, but it is absolutely special.
The other two times I went to Mozza, I was slightly less amazed, but I think I know why. I sat at the pizza bar each time, saw my own pizzas being made, and timed how long they baked. The first time, the amazing time, they pizzas were in the oven only four minutes. The next two times, they were seven and twelve (!) minutes, respectively, with correspondingly diminishing quality.
The way I got a seat in the place was by waiting out front at 11:30 and being among the first to step through the door. I think some slacker had failed to light the fire on time (or tend it properly) and it just wasn't hot enough yet those two times.
Keep in mind, Mozza has never promoted itself as ""vera pizza Napolitana,"" so don't expect Naples on a plate. Her pizza is different, but, I believe, every bit as good.
Pros: This pizza crust is almost a philosophical revelation
Cons: I think sometimes the oven temperature is off
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