Old Europe

The Scene
The setting is perfect, on East Carson Street on the South Side, a traditional babushka fortress. There is a fresh trout tank at the entrance, with a small bar area. Two dining rooms open towards the back, with white tablecloths and beautiful handmade Bulgarian plates and serving dishes.

The Food
Descriptions are in order, as the food is from many countries, and is not generally seen on menus. There is a rich borscht offered here, Russian style served with sour cream. Good appetizers include Vareniki, (potato or sauerkraut dumplings) and pepper "Bjurek" (sweet red peppers filled with feta, covered with bread crumbs, and sautéed). Main courses run from Moussaka, an eggplant and veal casserole, to chicken paprikash, a chicken stew served over noodles. And remember that trout tank at the entrance? They're not there as pets. They are wrapped in grape leaves and grilled, for a moist and delicious alternative to the heavier stews and casseroles.

The Extras
All entrées are served with banitza appetizer (cheese-filled phyllo), homemade bread, a chopped salad of cucumber, tomato, and pepper, and a vegetable side dish. It sounds like a lot of food, and it is. But save room for the apple strudel dessert. Served warm, it is a pleasant confection of apples, cream, nuts and phyllo.