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The Scene
The corner space that used to house Oznot's Dish, Billyburg's pioneering hipster hang, has been reworked into a modern cafe straight out of Saigon. The space strikes a cool-as-a-cucumber pose with an all-window front wall, ornately patterned tile floor and leaf-shaped fans. The slighty harried staff attends to the stylishly scruffy crowd, packed in at dark-wood tables or at the long green-painted bar.

The Food
The modern Vietnamese menu mixes a few surprises into traditional dishes--such as pork belly added to papaya salad--but works best when it keeps things simple. A thick pork chop's mild accompaniment of egg, cucumber and rice accentuates its palate-tickling peppercorn glaze, while a side of crunchy fries turns tender shaken beef into a riff on bistro fare. The "tapas" are more hit and miss, like beef carpaccio overwhelmed by a citrusy dressing, but desserts, especially a subtle congee made with mung beans, coconut and caramel, end unusually high.