There really aren't many restaurants that do the French Asian cuisine. There's Viet places, but I mean the more elegant French Asian fusion, for which Le Colonial has a fine reputation. Here's what Le Colonial doesn't have: a chef named Chad Starling. He's really doing some fine things in Le Lan's kitchen. I can't wait to go back for more. I went on a Friday night, somewhat concerned that I was underdressed and that the place would be too crowded. It was nice-but-casual, and not too crowded -- just right. I was alone, so I sat at the bar. The house Riesling is delicious. Chef Chad sent out an amuse bouche, which was a melt-in-your-mouth piece of sashimi (I think it was yellowtail) with something frizzy on it, like radish shaving, and a flavored oil, I think. Don't know what the hell it was, but it sure amused my bouche. The entrees looked great, but I was in the mood for appetizers. I started with the Young Thai coconut soup, which was one of the best soups I have ever tasted. I cook a little myself, and I do soups, and this one made me envious. I also sampled some duck dumplings, which I wanted more of. I don't mean the order was small; I mean I wanted seconds. The homemade spring rolls are light for fried food, and the filling once again reflected the chef's knack for marrying flavors. I can't wait to have some of these entrees and will review again when I do. The night I went, the bartender was also waiting tables, and the wait staff sometimes tended their own drinks. They just do it this way. Maybe it fosters helpfulness on the part of the staff, but I don't care for it. It makes the place look harried and short-staffed, even though it's not.
Pros: Chef Starling, the soup
Cons: a bit pricey
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