The eclectic, shabby genteel interior of John O'Groat's restaurant, where the only ambient lighting comes from dim wall sconces, might make you initially wary about what will come out of the kitchen. But then you notice the main room's tables are almost fully occupied, and business looks good at the huge, U-shaped counter in the room to the right and at the tables in the other room to the left, and you think maybe you didn't make a wrong choice for lunch after all. You didn't. The fish and chips are done just right, with a light batter on the fluffy Icelandic haddock. Apart from the fish and chips and potato cakes, most of the menu seems solidly American, with some Mexican seasoning. You can order off the breakfast menu for lunch, which, judging from the plump pancakes stacked on plates at nearby tables, many diners do. A trip to John O'Groat's, at 10516 W. Pico Blvd., a block from S. Beverly Glen Boulevard, also gives you a chance to browse the rich mosaic of non-chain specialty shops on Pico.