The flattering, pretty, skylit SoHo basement is as welcoming and cushy as can be. A view of the kitchen is invigorating. The decor is tasteful, at once rough-hewn and soothing. When I saw our waiter I thought, Uh-oh, he looks like he should be on the cover of i-D Magazine, not IDing today's specials -- wonder what this is gonna be like. But he turned out to be smart and gracious as well as drop-dead gorgeous. And we were both wearing jean jackets! I went there with my Midwestern parents for brunch. My dad, a European-born chef, found the place completely unpretentious yet stylish and the food ambitious *and* satisfying. I had a quince sorbet-and- crumble for dessert which I still remember. Even the HOSTESSES are good here. That's really saying something. Nota bene for night owls: Wednesdays at subMercer (attached bar/lounge) there's a very hot DJ night. Good luck getting in if you aren't well-connected or on Page 6.
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