On the sidewalk out front are big cardboard bins of oranges, melons and grapefruit. Inside, there's more fresh fruit, bags of nuts and dried fruit, cannelini beans, rustic pasta, olive oil, anchovies, chiantis and barolos. But at Roma's, it's all about the cheese. Rosario operates the slicer behind the counter. If you're a regular customer, he unwraps what you want as soon as you step inside -- the block of aged mozzarella, the wheels of pepato (pepper cheese) or parmesan reggiano. ""Have some fresh rolls,"" he says. ""How you been?"" And he hands you a sliver to taste while he starts to slice.
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