By Tom Sietsema Sunday, Oct. 17, 2010 Glorious understatement has always been Frank Ruta's signature at Palena. "After 10 years, it's time to do something," says the chef-owner of the beloved cafe and restaurant in Cleveland Park, which food lovers seek out for some of the most seductive salads, pastas and roast chicken in Washington. Coinciding with Palena's anniversary this month is its expansion into the former Magruder's next door, some freshening up in the original two dining areas, and a few significant cooking and service hires (the new maitre d' for the restaurant hails from the four-star Komi). If everything goes according to the script, Palena will be new and improved by the addition of a wood-burning grill and oven, 60 more seats for fans of the cafe, and a small retail market. Ruta is a chef's chef and a diner's dream. If I want to conjure summer, all I have to do is remember my last meal here: a still life of poached leeks, summer beans and shaved truffles garnished with a delicate pork fritter followed by hand-cut tagliatelle with juicy marbles of tomato and a brilliant pesto. Had I thought of it, I would have asked for a glass of Ruta's own wine , which he makes with his brother in small quantities.
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