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Best new restaurant in the Mission? - Review by citysearch c | Range Restaurant

Range Restaurant

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Best new restaurant in the Mission? 8/27/2006

We dropped into Range last night, where they were kind enough to squeeze us in despite the full house. Truly incredible food! The flavors in each dish were perfectly balanced, as you might expect from an eatery of this caliber (on par with Delfina and Bar Tartine), but with surprising elements that elevate the experience beyond expectations. Manila clams are grounded with fennel sausage and enlivened with hot pepper and chives. Heirloom tomatoes are accompanied by a creamy raw milk cheese (like a cross between mascarpone and mozzarella) and sprinkled with crunchy bread crumbs. The slow cooked pork loin (w/ butter beans, hen-of-the-wood mushrooms, and a bit of spinach) could be found elsewhere - but here the jus is infused with a zesty lemon fragrance that lightens the whole dish. I could go on, but by now you should be on your way over there! (My only complaint is that the noise level in the front room is unacceptably high.) Pros: Exceptional food Cons: Noise level too high for comfortable conversation more
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