The upscale sushi restaurant has traditionally nurtured a lively bar scene, with willowy bodies wandering through the tall steel "tables," the tops of which comprise slightly more than a square foot set on four long thin legs -- they're almost spidery chic. Despite its bargains on sushi and rolls during happy hour, early evening seems less popular than late night -- the bar is open until about 10 or 10:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and about midnight Friday and Saturday -- and while some bar patrons drink while waiting for tables, others show up just for a drink or perhaps a bit of a flirt. Twenty or so sakes are served, and at least that many young, attractive people may make eye contact with you. (They also have a full bar, solid wine list and some nonflirters too.) One Friday night around 10, we had to wedge our bodies into the bar area to get drinks, though we had no trouble finding a place to stand and watch gorgeous platters of fish wander by. Hard to say which made for better viewing: the food or the clothes.