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Businiess name:
Range Restaurant
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Review by:
citysearch c.
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Review content:
On entry, it might be just a neighborhood hangout, but once the food is on the table, it's city-class. The staff was friendly and welcoming. I can report on only one dinner, but it was sterling. If there is one dish that is a touchstone as to how a kitchen is doing, it might be scallops. These were ideally springy (it's a catch muscle that flaps the bivalves shells as it goes scooting over the bottom), not too soft, in a brown savory shellfish bisque that played off nicely against the grilled edges of the scallops; and cute, crisp radish sprouts on top. Cross-rib roast: not fork-cuttable (I tried) but very tender and mellow, on a great base (was that fennel with the little potatoes?) And a nice dessert choice. Good wine list, although I found mine in the by-the-glass section. This young place seems to have it all together; all the best to them!
Pros: Expertly prepared versions of familiar entrees
Cons: If I thought for a while, I might come up with 1 or 2
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