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Review content:
The Wood-n-Tap in Farmington, sister to the popular Hartford eatery, may resemble your typical Chili's-Applebees-Ruby Tuesday, but don't be fooled. This neighborhood joint is the real deal. Oh sure, you'll find all the typical offerings: burgers, fries, pizza and ribs. But everything is prepared far better than the same old franchise fare. Even the lemonade is homemade.
The atmosphere is clubby and cozy, with plenty of dark wood set off by bright yellow walls. There's a large plate-glass window at the far end of the dining room overlooking a small pond.
Bar bites are a fun way to start your meal. This platter of tiny hamburgers is served with cheese, Dijon sauce and a stack of tangy pickles. The menu boasts four variations on the classic 1/2 pounder of certified Black Angus: hickory-smoked with bacon and barbecue sauce; blue cheese and bacon; bacon and caramelized onions (do you detect a pattern here?); and sautéed mushrooms with Swiss cheese.
Not in the mood for a burger? There's pizza, though its congealed cheese topping and flaccid crust makes this a less-than-satisfying choice. The salads are far better. The Caesar features crisp Romaine tossed with creamy dressing and Parmesan cheese. The California Cobb is a colorful stunner for both the eye and the palate: fresh greens, red onion, black olives, avocado slices, chopped egg and bacon. Try it with the delicious honey-mustard dressing.
Except for the salads, many of which contain chicken or bacon, the vegetarian choices are limited. There's a decent veggie wrap, stuffed with lettuce, avocado, olives and onions, and a tasty vegetable burrito. But I know some non-carnivorous types who routinely make a meal out of the Wood-n-Tap's sweet potato fries. Crisp on the outside, tender on the inside, they are just about perfect. In fact, don't make the mistake of ordering the Tap Room fries. These imposters have been gussied up with a cloying sugar glaze, an unnecessary distraction.
The zippy barbecued ribs garnered raves, but the portion is gargantuan. Only consider ordering them if you don't mind doggie bags.
Desserts, while a notch above the standard chain fare, are not really worth the calories. In fact, the sweetest part of our meal was our waitress. Her friendliness was genuine, just like everything else about the Wood-n-Tap.
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