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Businiess name:
Vidalia
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Review by:
citysearch c.
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Review content:
By Tom Sietsema Washington Post Magazine Sunday, Oct. 14, 2007 Grilled baby octopus? On a Southern menu? With each passing season, and ever since chef R.J. Cooper came on board, it tastes as if the long-lived Vidalia is edging away from its roots. This is not necessarily a bad thing; that octopus, set on a swipe of avocado puree and seasoned with oregano and lemon, lingered in my mind long after it disappeared from my plate. And the company that appetizer is keeping -- chanterelle-strewn risotto with crisp bites of foie gras and a froth of Parmesan; spiced duck with vanilla-braised endive; crunchy fried chicken with ham-laced green beans -- reminds me why Cooper was the most recent recipient (along with Frank Ruta of Palena) of this year's prestigious mid-Atlantic best chef award from the James Beard Foundation. The man can cook. Cooper has plenty of support, in a team of sommeliers, servers and busboys -- and owners Jeff and Sallie Buben -- who see that patrons feel like they're someplace special. Yes, the space is underground, but the sleek lounge and elegant green-and-gold dining rooms make that reality irrelevant. Besides, the lack of windows isn't what you're thinking about when you're sipping a great glass of wine or finishing every last flake of lemon chess pie.
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