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Traditional AND Fusion - Review by Avery G | Koo


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Traditional AND Fusion 6/4/2006

I admit it - for years, I was a sushi purist. Sure, I would have spicy tuna rolls and the occasional California roll because they've become common in Japan, but when it comes to anything beyond that (especially those with the dreaded cream cheese), I would just turn up my nose and decline. However, based on the great reviews of Koo and the pedigree of its head chef, we decided to take the long ride on the N-line into the inner sunset and give Koo a try. The restaurant is cosy without being cramped - and the use of dark wood and heavily saturated earth tones combined with gentle, ambient music makes the space extremely comfortable. The food is both traditional and fusion - the nigiri and maki offered are purely traditional - and the katsuo nigiri was so good, I had to order a second order. The ika-natto maki was also a highlight of the night. However, as traditional as the nigiri and maki are, the special rolls and appetizers take their inspiration from many cultures - a tuna and salmon tartare with guacamole and shrimp chips combines Hawaiian Poke with Mexican guacamole and chips... and a Tokyo Crunch roll was topped with ground bits of tonkatsu (breaded fried pork). Instead of creating a mish-mosh of foods, Koo has pulled off the best of both worlds. If you're in the mood for traditional sushi or Japanese inspired Fusion cuisine, make a trip to the inner sunset and give Koo a chance. more
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