By Julia Beizer Friday, April 30, 2010 At a glance: Chris Brophy wanted to run his own shop. He had grown tired of working for other people as a tradesman. So in late 2008, he added a new title to his resume. He's now the restaurateur and cook behind Rhode Island Reds, a sweet little cafe in Hyattsville. The 34-seat eatery has a quirky-chaotic feel, the kind of atmosphere you would find in an artsy coffee shop. Shelves are stacked with books. There's a wall with pictures of aging movie stars (including a droopy paparazzo pic of Arnold Schwarzenegger). The front room houses a display of imported tomatoes, marinated mushrooms and other gifts for food lovers with a red umbrella over it, like an outdoor food stand. An upright piano sits vacant except for the occasional music performances that take place in the shop. Every time I've been in, Brophy, 50, stands behind the counter, wearing a flat cap, ready to take orders and turn out pizzas with an endearing shopkeeper's gruffness. Political conversations bubble up around the booths; the issues include plans for Arts District Hyattsville and the new health-care law. On the menu: The grub at Rhode Island Reds is like home cooking -- tasty, but unfussy. Pizzas are the stars here. Brophy makes his own tomato sauce and dough, and from the table in the corner, you can watch as he tosses a boule into a pie. The resulting crust has a great snap at the edge and a chewiness in the middle. Toppings range from standard (the Gina Lollobrigida pie with sauce, garlic and mozzarella) to more adventurous (the pineapple and prosciutto on the Duke Kahanamoku). Slivers of herbs add a nice touch. The Joe DiMaggio, an Italian cold-cut grinder, is bolstered by Brophy's terrific house-made pesto. Start a weekend morning with the McTrotsky, a combination of fluffy eggs and ham on a flaky roll. (The name, like that of the cafe, nods to what Brophy describes as his "vague commie sympathies.") Appetizers will set you back only five bucks -- a great deal for the wings, which are marinated with orange and tarragon. If it's available, end a meal with the Awesome Amaretto Apple Thingy, a tart-like dessert flecked with cinnamon. At your service: Except for monthly fixed-price wine dinners, the cafe is counter service. Brophy will call your name when your order is up (it may take a while) and you bus your plate when you're through. This is not to say that the place is devoid of service. My three visits were always brightened by some interaction with Brophy, whether he was waxing philosophical with the regulars or tossing pizza dough while listening to opera. What to avoid: The waffle I had during weekend brunch was fine, but I could have done without the droopy whipped cream and fruit on top. As far as sides go, the dill-laced potato salad outshone the bland cole slaw. Wet your whistle: Sip a bottle of Anchor Steam Beer, a can of Pabst Blue Ribbon or a glass of Italian wine with your meal. The shop also offers Boylan sodas, juice, espresso drinks, coffee and sparkling water. Bottom line: In addition to his work in the trades, Brophy has also dabbled in acting, writing and directing plays over the years. The cafe, he says, allows him the opportunity to channel his creative energy into food. Patrons in search of a cheerful, casual place to eat can reap the benefits.
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