Absolutely worth the drive to 82nd. Nestled amongst a thousand car lots and sketchy check cashing places is this gem of a restaurant, and no, you can't just go to the Pho Van in the pearl district instead. When you go to Pho Van what you want is the Beef 7 Ways, and it's only available at the SE 82nd location. What I love most about Beef 7 Ways is that it's as entertaining as it is tasty; it's interactive eating. Cook paper thin slices of beef in boiling broth, soak rice paper wrappers in hot water, add noodles, cucumber, basil, cilantro, plantains or plum sauce, and dip in a variety of sauces. Each wrap is an explosion of unusual flavor and texture. Unless you're more deft with rice paper than I am, be prepared to go through a stack of napkins, but sticky fingers are a small price to pay for finding yourself in culinary heaven. If you haven't been, go. Immediately.
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