Kellari Parea Restaurant

The Scene
The cool modernism of the former Parea is exchanged for the warmer trappings of an Ionian tavern, with aged oak wine barrels and earthy textures of stone and wood. In other ways the vibe feels decidedly Gramercy: You'd be forgiven for assuming there was a jacket requirement when surveying the crowd, and servers are versed in the old-school tradition of mannered deference.

The Food
A complimentary starter of olives and kefalograviera cheese sets an auspicious tone for the up-market, all-organic Greek fare. Fresh yellow tomatoes and pimientos add zing to a salad, and a similar balsamic-style base marinates fleshy octopus sprinkled with capers. Entrees are so large the table literally needs to be extended. "Yesterday's Lamb" is marinated overnight, oven-roasted, and served seeping juice into oregano potatoes, while whole grilled bass is rich and buttery. Desserts show characteristic Greek restraint: Sheep's milk yogurt with thyme honey and tart cherries has a light, effortless touch.

Hits: The kitchen doesn't overextend itself or resort to gimmickry; and its back-to-basics approach is a refreshing one.

Misses: Final tally might seem a bit stiff for those not afraid of jaunts to Astoria.