The Scene
As a tribute to the historic science hall once housed in the space, colorfully filled beakers line the corridor leading to an airy dining room. Soaring ceilings and massive mirrors propped atop a working brick fireplace capture the throwback grandeur. A mahogany staircase sweeps through, climbing to a balconied lounge upstairs. Ignoring the elevator music, suits wine and dine with recommendations from amiable servers.
The Food
The kitchen performs few experiments with its classically executed cuisine. While the smoked salmon platter layers ample flavors with creme fraiche, lemon confit, chives and trout caviar, the lackluster, barely oregano-dusted shrimp is more emblematic of the menu. Sauces rescue otherwise bland entrees. Tender rack of roasted baby lamb marinates in a soft merlot reduction, and fish-and-chips-style lobster tail with crisp potato sticks fares better dipped in ketchup. Add rich creamed spinach to solo dishes, or save room for the deliciously berry-packed, whipped cream-style lemon sabayon.