Amma

The Scene
A discerning crowd of mostly families comes here expecting--and receiving--food that's a cut above. The small, peaceful dining room is peach-colored with handsome fabric art and a general air of spotlessness. The hovering service staff describe everything in detail. Dishes are served individually, rather than family-style.

The Food
The clean-flavored, delicate version of Indian cuisine served here is impressively tasty; several discrete notches above the average decent neighborhood establishment. Spinach chaat--peppery, batter-fried leaves topped with zingy mung sprouts--makes a terrific starter; so does a trio of small, subtle samosas. Tandoor-grilled lamb chops are incredibly juicy and savory, and a pear chutney sets them off terrifically. Kararee bhindi--crisp, tangy okra and onion salad--is memorably pungent. Madras chicken and the tomatoey Malabar salmon are standard, while desserts are a must-try, particularly the fluffy housemade mango cheesecake and kulfi in citrus soup.