The restaurant is formal without being stuffy and the menu reflects that. Sure, there are dishes considered daring four decades ago - when's the last time you saw baked escargot among appetizer offerings? But there also are innovative selections that would be at home in the trendiest bistro. Pan-seared, potato-crusted Atlantic salmon in a pinot noir beurre blanc with melted leeks, and grilled pork tenderloin with shiitake mushrooms, tomato spoon bread and a fresh herb demi-glace show the contemporary side of a menu that changes regularly.
The plates match the beauty of the location. A special salad of iceberg lettuce, crisp smoked bacon, ripe tomatoes and a creamy dressing looked enticing and tasted even better. "Just like a BLT," advises our waiter and once again, he proved correct. A creamy tomato and vegetable soup was rich and smooth, the perfect antidote to the chilly night. The swordfish was succulent and fresh. Even the accompaniments to the main dishes were carefully considered - no spray sprigs of parsley or quick drizzles of sauce here. The slender grilled asparagus spears and meaty fingerling potatoes sharing a plate with the fish, for instance, would have made a tasty meal on their own.
Desserts include all the expected players - crème brûlée, warm chocolate cake and a selection of sorbets. They are all done well, especially the warm chocolate cake with a molten center that oozes out when the crust is pierced.
The experience isn't cheap - quality rarely is - but for a special occasion, or an ordinary weeknight, Apricots is worth the splurge.