Beizer Review It's not easy to create atmosphere in a huge, impersonal space attached to a mall. Punk's has done so by bringing the outside in. The concept of a backyard cookout drove the menu creation and much of the decor. Stand in line to order next to a faux picket fence. Sit down to eat at a picnic table underneath an umbrella. Plants scattered throughout the restaurant encourage a game of make-believe -- even in the heart of winter. The food helps drive the fantasy home. A steak sandwich piles tender meat, sauteed mushrooms and grilled onions atop a buttery roll smeared with a peppery sauce. The zippy mayonnaise in the coleslaw enlivens thin ribbons of carrot and red and green cabbage. (It wouldn't be a barbecue without potato salad and corn on the cob, so those sides are available as well.) And the salads are better than typical backyard fare -- a jumble of baby spinach, cheddar and rings of pear is a brilliant mix of salty and sweet. Beer, wine and cocktails round out the spread. -- Julia Beizer (Feb. 19, 2010)
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