You'll have to knock to enter this hidden dining room, a luxe windowless space featuring four wall-sized murals depicting famous landmarks throughout the seasons, as well as a handful of finery-laden tables. Diners are, as a rule, a subdued lot, but the oh-so-formal servers can be cajoled into loosening up without missing a beat.
In stark contrast to the slabs of beef so common in the downstairs dining room, this kitchen is capable of playful, smart and quite precise cooking. Take the foie gras "club" with green apple on thin, small white bread squares: It's a refreshingly irreverent way to serve the foie, and it works. And though many menu descriptions seem almost intended to make diners skeptical--wild salmon with tangerine jus and black olives, venison with Brussels sprouts dressing and lamb loin with red curry-pea shoot emulsion--time after time these dishes shine.