At the new Tallahassee Ted's, it's your new american smoked cooked restaurant. The mashed potatoes have telltale lumps. "Aunt Fannie's" squash casserole just might be the best I've ever tasted. And the only freezer in the kitchen (yes, I sneaked a peek) is for ice cream. Behind an understated, green-trimmed brick facade, the decor faithfully reproduces the Arts & Crafts style of early 20th-century Western saloons. I know the look. We spent seven summers running resort hotels in Montana and Wyoming. Curious about the taste and texture of bison? The flavor's almost indistinguishable from that of beef. The difference is that Ted's healthy organic bison contains less fat, cholesterol and calories than beef or chicken. And though it's more compact than beef - no marbling - it's no less tender.
But given Turner's and McKerrow's genius for making things go, I think I'll see Ted's Montana Grill around for quite some time.