DMANBURGER “Scuderia NYC”
March 11, 2010
In Italian, Scuderia means stable or team, and the team at this Northern Italian Trattoria is delightfully headed up by Leyla Marchetto and Alessandro Bandini. The decor is ingeniously adorned with illustrations from New Yorker cartoonist Marisa Acocella Marchetto, Vintage rock anthology and strategically splashed Italian graffiti. The dining room features family style communal tables, bar and private mezzanine, with seasonal access to 35 more spaces al fresco. I heard about Scuderia from the culinary fame that surrounds her location- Da Silvano.It was comforting and refreshing to know that this charming Greenwich Village spot has created its own confident gallop on such famed Italian piatti as Carpaccio di Manzo, Parpadelle al Cinghiale and Saltimbocca alla Romana. Scuderia is also famous for their thin and delectably scrumptious pizzas, which include ravishingly topped pies such as Piccante (Spicy Pork, Taleggio, Rucola), Tartufata al Formaggio ( Four cheeses, Black Truffles) and signature Scuderia (Fig Jam, Blue cheese. As the DMANBURGER I never expected to find among all these wonderfully inherited Italian specialties another inherited American treat; the burger!
The Scudburger, as it’s affectionately called is a perfect Pat La Frieda blend of assorted rich prime cuts of which has been especially crafted for Scuderia. Open for a little over a year now, Scuderia has the brainchild of Chef Carlo Appolini in the kitchen, whom was former culinarian of such exorbitant upscale eats as Le Cirque at The Bellagio in Vegas and Osetria del Circo in New York. I sat in a comfortable window seat and was treated to a taste of Crostini Misti a Modo Nostro, which tonight was robust and hearty boar Ragu, white Cannelini beans hinted with Rosemary and fresh sautéed mushrooms, all of which were fantastic! I couldn’t wait to sample the burger which was looming in my thoughts as I contently watched Fred Astaire dancing in an old movie which was playing on a screen perched above the service line. ” Why was I watching Fred Astaire so intently” I scarily asked myself ? Normally I wouldn’t be able to focus on such a film, but tonight a peace and certainty came over me that could only be attributed to my calm and pleasant surroundings. The burger arrived which quickly took my attention off Daddy Long Legs and on to the mammoth beauty that was in front of me. The Scudburger was seated on a well toasted roll, oozing creamy good Caciocavello cheese, fresh Rucola, crispy fried Speck, dark caramelized onions and spicy mustard. The flavor was heavenly as I bit over and over into the complex layers of the burgers ingredients; the smokiness of the Speck, the velvety richness of the Caciocavello, the tartness of the Rucola and the delicate earthiness of the mushrooms. My only slight criticism would be the bun or roll, the bread was a little too coarse and cumbersome in my opinion, and rather hard on the tooth. Having said that though, I ate every bit of the leftover top-side of the bun using it to mop up tasty olive oil, which I thought was more suited for this type of bread.
I had a wonderful time at Scuderia! Leyla and Alessandro are wonderful people who entertain their customers with the utmost respect and attention. The Scudburger wreaks of flavor and goodness and is definitely up there with my favorites in terms of flavor and originality. I look forward to returning to Scuderia, not only for the food, but for the World Cup Soccer festivities that they are planning in July as a wonderful place to park my caboose, eat my face off and watch some worldly competitive team football…….Ci vediamo presto Scuderia !!
Pros: Atmostphere, overall food and service
Cons: Scudburger bun