It may be three levels up, but this multipurpose Union Square destination for sustenance and socializing is getting in on the ground-floor of the surrounding hotel's new approach to lobby space. As the centerpiece for the first incarnation of the chain's reinvented lobby concept, the restaurant eschews walls in favor of an open plan punctuated by lounge and bar-height seating in warm hues reminiscent of the flames flickering from the bar-side fireplace. Chef Ben Battman and French Laundry-alum Ryan Jette team up to bring patrons American cuisine influenced by local ingredients in everyman dishes like steak au poivre. They go farther afield for poached Maine lobster and Wagyu beef and bring it back with their signature cherry-cola cake. Those who come simply to imbibe can clink glasses filled with H. Joseph Ehrmann's memorable list of San Francisco-inspired cocktails.