There's nothing serene about this noisy scene. Horns, hides, wagon wheels and wood beams decorate the white-washed room, which is packed with Upper East Side professionals kicking off their boots after a hard day's work. Service copes well enough with the crunch, but at times they seem like they'd rather be anywhere else.
Though the drink-centered scene feels themey, the food is a cut above your usual cocktail canteen. Mellow goat cheese merges wonderfully with spicy poblano chile in a quesadilla; a mixed grill with chicken, shrimp, sausage, swordfish, and steak covered in a complex sweet-and-hot mole can feed a couple of hungry cowhands; and the grilled rare tuna comes with a trio of salsas (mango, papaya, and tomatillo) that stir the taste buds like a cattle prod. But what will make you really want to scream "Yee-haw!" are the sopapillas--fried apple turnovers topped with vanilla ice cream.