There is nightly chaos at Hoomoos Asli, which diners are willing to endure, even enjoy, because of the owner's sparkling Israeli dishes and good cheer. "Please don't pronounce it humm-us," the menu says. The "hoomoos" it calls asli is a Turkish word meaning "the real thing," and it is wonderful, simply a smooth chickpea purée with a lemony tang and a deep flavor, served with fresh puffy pita bread. The menu offers much more, including a selection of extremely fresh salads. Among the other dishes, try the mallawach, a Yemenite Jewish dish of flaky flatbread pan-fried until crisp on the bottom and topped with feta cheese, black olives, olive oil and zatar, a fragrant Middle Eastern spice.