The original and the best
Friday, May 19, 2006
Squabbling among family members has kicked off the much fabled chain of Grand Sichuan restaurants, each dissident branch taking a further departure from the original. The Canal Street location is the original and still produces the most satisfactory of Chinese dishes of them all.
Sweet and sour chicken that's crispy, not soggy? Check. Drunken crab that makes you feel like you're drunk from the deliciousness of it? Check. Sea cucumber which you've never had before, but will make you a convert? It's here. The food is not complicated, well prepared, and most dishes are a revelation. This is the only Grand Sichuan, the rest are just pretenders.