Power-dinning
Monday, September 26, 2005
Friendly Staff. The dining room is spacious and decorated with an abundance of Americana bordering on the ludicrous: folk-art bald eagles, Stars-and-Stripes neckties, a miniature flagpole on each table.
The Food
The menu includes both classic steaks and slightly more modern dishes. The headline entree is the crackling pork shank, a two-pound piece of unnaturally tender meat with a crisp, deep-fried skin. The rib steak is big, crusty and flavorful, and rare filet mignon is soft and juicy. Seafood entrees, such as an order of large seared sea scallops, can be a little lacking in flavor. Desserts, like the drunken donuts, combine whimsy with delicacy.