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Uber-casual, trendy setting with daring home cooking at comfortable prices. Contributor
The Scene
Rubicon's much-praised former chef, Dennis Leary, is at the helm of this adorable 20-seat house. Decor is stunning and sparse: Gra...more from the editor »
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WHAT PEOPLE ARE SAYING ABOUT CANTEEN - SAN FRANCISCO
Uber-casual, trendy setting with daring home cooking at comfortable prices. Contributor
The Scene
Rubicon's much-praised former chef, Dennis Leary, is at the helm of this adorable 20-seat house. Decor is stunning and sparse: Gra... more from the editor »
THE DETAILS ON CANTEEN - SAN FRANCISCO
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Uber-casual, trendy setting with daring home cooking at comfortable prices. Contributor on 07-31-2006

The Scene
Rubicon's much-praised former chef, Dennis Leary, is at the helm of this adorable 20-seat house. Decor is stunning and sparse: Gray walls and natural wood tables give way to modern touches like bright apple green counter tops and retro kitchen canisters. The crowd is a strange brew of foodies and the unsuspecting hotel guest.

The Food
The kitchen churns out a tiny menu of ever-changing, exquisitely prepared California cuisine. Start with an unforgettable deviled crab salad or the sumptuous escarole salad of white anchovies and a mustardy gribiche dressing. Mains are also a creative exercise in excellence: The Blanquette de Veau is a memorable pot pie of veal, artichokes, almonds and pearl onions in a rich broth, and the halibut with olive tapenade, ham and mashed potatoes comes perfectly cooked and salted. Desserts are not to be missed: Tangerine jelly with cranberry sorbet and candied zest packs the perfect after-dinner pucker, and the tarte tatin, though chewy, was a wafer-thin, rich caramel confection.
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Canteen
San Francisco, CA
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