Recently returning from Switzerland, like with my other travels abroad, I return on a food high, expecting the same fresh appeal of good food often to be disappointed here. Keeping this in mind, I had the most fantastic, orgasmic meal since my return.
Rainy night, deserted streets, it felt like a scene out of a movie. Soft and glittering. Rain will always cast a romantic light on the city. The tilted outdoor seats were the first glimpse of the place. Looking up at the sign, got it right.
I stood in the nook of their doorway. Peered in. Jewel box. The place reminded me of one. Stepped in.
I felt like I was transplanted to a non-specific place in Europe.
One takes in the view of the white tiled floors, high ceilings, exposed earthy wood beams. Rich, black velvety draped tables, invitingly appealing by the windows. Sleek and modern. Two steps down, covering the left, expansive wall to wall bar, a beautiful bouquet rests atop a counter, the home to concoctions of aperitifs and cocktails, numerous alcoholic bottles glitter atop their perches. To the right, paintings on the walls, movie motifs, tribute to the 50 and 60s. On the ceiling, lights in the patterns of concentric circles that reminded of shells and the helmet bowl that sugars are served in. Sweeping design, the ease of direction flows.
The eyes are easily drawn to the centerpiece of the room, the shimmering, hanging chandelier. Also in the center of the room, stairs leading down, where one catches a glimpse of an elegantly private back room. Looking beyond the chandelier, another back room is available.
Elegant, pristine, yet enchantingly embracing.
We were quickly seated. They gave us a spot right by the front windows!
Settling into our chairs, we checked out the menu. Mulled over our selections. I was debating whether to have the Bucatini all' Amatriciana (pasta with pancetta, onions, tomatoes & pecorino) or the Stinco di Maiale (slow roasted pork shank with patate della nonna).
A complimentary appetizer arrived, fennel served with anchovy sauce on olive oil. Then the cute and knowledgeable waiter dropped by and told us the specials! Placing our orders, warm rustic bread with soft centers and water quickly arrived soon after. Olive oil, poured onto a serving plate. Eating festivities commenced!
Appetizers we indulged upon:
- Fried artichokes served with a wedge of lemon (Carciofi alla Giudea) - their signature dish! This was an amazing treat. Arriving six (or was it eight?) on a plate, the artichokes were like beautifully dried roses. Picking up a bud, it did not have that greasy feel. I peeled a 'leaf' off and tasted it. It was thin and crispy like a potato chip! I peeled and ate away the outer layers till I reached the 'heart'. Took a small biteful of the delicious hot morsel. Again, a potato like consistency and flavor. I bet one could play and punch up the flavors with different seasonings. An addictive and fun finger food! Eye and tummy pleaser.
- Roasted beets with bitter honey (Barbabietola al Forno)- those who know me are well aware of how I love beets! This was a tasty salad served with mandarin oranges. Nice and light. Very refreshing.
As we were eating, we eyed the prosecco cocktails menu. We decided to imbibe and try their Lamponi. A concoction of pureed raspberries with champagne.
For our main concourse, we feasted on:
- Coda alla Vaccinara: braised oxtails with celery & semolina gnocchi. The semolina gnocchi resembled a biscuit. It had a nice texture. Taste was a warm buttery blend of cheese, garlic and semolina. Compared to my entree, we thought the oxtail was a bit chewy but still tasty.
- My decision was made when I heard one of the specials, the words, "braised pork ribs." I didn't even hear what would accompany it. So when my plate of three large pork ribs arrived served over beans, I was salivating. The pork was so tender, it slid right off the bone.
Normally, I am not fond of marinated ribs. I find the flavor to be spice-rubbed intense or the meat to be too chewy.
However, the ribs at Gusto were by far the most tender and tastiest ones I've tried in a long while. A symphony of spices, everything we ate here was like this. Perfect ribs.
Of course, the best for last, meals cannot exist without desserts!
Desserts:
- For the life of me, I cannot remember the name of this dessert. It started with Buddini *I think* ... a phenomenal chocolate dessert. Dark, bittersweet chocolate. Served like two gelato-pudding like scoops with whipped cream on top and fresh berries on the side. It was not rich or sweet. Lusciously perfect, light and fulfilling. Murmuring sighs of MMMMmsss. You know it's a knockout when no one talks. After eating one scoopful, we finally voiced how wonderful it was.
I would highly recommend this place. Whether it was the good company, perfect night -- not busy, friendly and helpful staff -- I found it to be one of the best New York meals I've had in a long time. Perfect fusion. Moderately pricey.
Romantic enough for a date, charming, casual neighborhood place where conversations can be had. Great to catch up with friends.
by Angela L.
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