Editorial Review

Dig into hearty Russian cuisine at this elegant, Old World tourist favorite.
The Scene
Ladies who lunch join a cheerful tourist crowd at this Eastern European restaurant and tea room just a stone's throw from the Mag Mile and Art Institute. Shiny brass chandeliers, retro Russian posters and elegant burgundy and dark wood accents give the rooms a cozy, contemporary air; congenial Russian servers patiently explain the nuances of the traditional menu.

The Food
With its abundance of beets, herring and other Russian staples, the Old World menu is an acquired taste for Midwestern palates, but daring diners will be rewarded with dishes like sweet, tangy Ukrainian borscht, a hot soup chunky with beets, cabbage, carrots and other root vegetables. Another classic, pelmeni (Russian dumplings) are stuffed with ground beef and onions and presented simply on a platter with sour cream and yogurt-garlic sauces. Other tempting options include baked eggplant, chicken croquettes, and cheese blintzes with raspberry sauce, which make a fine finish.