By 6 o'clock, the 11 or so tables of Spumoni's tiny dining room are all occupied, and families and couples are digging into their spaghetti, eggplant parmesan and, most of all, gnocchi, along with warm foccacia and olivade dip. It's so intimate and casual that the alert, fast-moving waiters will pass you your glass of wine over the heads of the diners alongside you. If it's not too cold outside, there are a few patio tables from where you can watch the always-interesting pedestrian (and canine) parade on Montana Avenue. Spumoni won't serve you up anything memorable, but it won't disappoint you either. It's the reliable neighborhood trattoria. Buon appetito!