Having lived in Munich for two years, there's something comforting about Bavarian cuisine. When it's done exceptionally well, it's a play of tender roasted meats, rich sauces and handmade dumplings that can't be beat. When it's done any less than perfect, it's a heavy, gloppy mess that sits like a bowling ball in your gut for the better part of the week.
There lies the dichotomy of Suppenkueche - over the past 13 years, I've had amazing Bavarian dinners there that could stand up to Munich's best, and I've had meals that left me searching the medicine cabinet for an Alka Seltzer.
The good news is that yesterday's meal was back on the good side - Jaegerschnitzel, a pounded pork cutlet pan fried with a mushroom sauce, with spaetzle that were light, fluffy and perfectly buttery. I accompanied this with a selection of beer ranging from a northern Koenig Pils to a Muenchner Maibock from Hofbraeuhaus.
Can I give the restaurant four stars? I'd love to as the menu is traditional, and every German I bring in agrees that it smells like home. However, high prices for beer and inconsistency in the food quality keeps me from giving that elusive fourth star.
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