That's what a Southern friend of mine called Redbones at first sniff of her brisket plate. As a Northerner I can add that the meat is tender and almost unbelievably good, the corn fritters are a dangerous treat, and the well stocked bar, with many local ales, will make a beer aficionado swoon (Anglophiles, you can get a snakebite here too, and it's perfect). Underbones, the bar downstairs, is open late, has full food service, and is a fine, loud, friendly gathering space after that 10pm movie gets out. The lemonade comes in a giant mason jar, the sauces are varied, the service is leisurely but knowledgeable. And the prices? Cheap, cheap, cheap.