It both puzzles and angers me to see the fake mediocrity that Spanish cuisine in the US is reduced to. The chef acclaimed to be the greatest in all the world hails from this Country and yet, Americans still cannot seem to get enough of the tourist show tapas concepts.
It appears to be a consistent model: someone with absolutely no attachment to the Spanish culture makes a stop in Andalucia on a tour through Europe and sees marketing potential ? charge 20x mark-up for flavorful peasant food billed as high-end European cuisine by spicing up the menu with foreign words.
Then, throw some Carlo Rossi jugs in a vat of fruit punch and charge $8 a cup to dull the palates of your patrons before they try your lackluster food. To top it all off, lure in the ladies by the dozen by spicing up the scene with music you can shake your hips to that, despite being nothing like Spanish music, passes off quite swimmingly due to the fact that it is sung in Spanish. Hire the hottest Mexican waiters you can find with perfectly thick accents ? they won?t know the difference, especially after all that ?sangria.?
And just when you think I am done bursting your bubble, I have to inform you of the shocking news that mojitos are not served in Spain. You can cry now.
Such is Mi Luna, and such is the state of the vast majority of ?Spanish restaurants? in the U.S. I was lucky enough to grow up in Santa Fe, NM, which touts the best chef of Spanish cuisine this side of the Atlantic. Yes, spoiled.
Don?t get me wrong ? I am all about eating olives and plates of ham and cheese and mushrooms drenched in garlic and butter ? when they are properly priced as the peasant food bar snacks that they really are without any pretense of ?upscale cuisine.? I am also happy to go out to Mi Luna and dance the night away to their salsa band, but my interaction with this place ends there. I may get a wee bit hungry at the end of the night, but as a matter of principle, I ward off my cravings until I?m on my way home and passing by El Rey.
Two places seem to offer up a real Spanish dining experience in town ? the much acclaimed Catalan and Rioja in Westchase. I am yet to try them but rest assured you will find a review here when I do. The other place that served quality Spanish food in town was Tio Pepe in Bellaire but it has, much to my dismay, closed down, most likely because they failed to offer the ?tapas bar? charade that this country somehow, never seems to tire of.
Pros: live salsa band on weekends
Cons: everything else
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